How To Repair Sprinkler Valve

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How to Repair a Irrigation Solenoid Valve

When a solenoid valve (too chosen an electric valve or automatic sprinkler valve) fails to close information technology is virtually always because something is stuck inside it. This might exist a grain of sand, a small twig, a insect, or fifty-fifty a tiny snail. To fix the valve you need to detach and clean it. When a valve fails to open it is commonly due to a bad solenoid or bad wiring, although in rare cases a grain of sand stuck inside the valve or a ripped diaphragm inside the valve. The following education tell how to disassemble, clean, and inspect the automatic valve.

To clean the valve:
As y'all detach the valve exist certain to note how all the parts fit together so y'all can get information technology back together correctly! I strongly suggest you make a sketch and have notes. Each brand and model of valve is slightly different. The valve shown in the photos here is an anti-siphon type valve, which is a type commonly used on home sprinkler systems. The cap construction on the correct side of this valve is the anti-siphon device.

Typical Anti-Siphon Type Solenoid Valve

Remove the solenoid from the valve. Most solenoids unscrew counter-clockwise to remove. When removing the solenoid watch that the spring loaded plunger within information technology does not pop-out and fall into a mud pool. On nigh newer valves the plunger is held "captive" so it won't fall out when the solenoid is removed, just sometimes fifty-fifty those ones come loose. Once the solenoid is removed, push in on the end of the leap-loaded plunger in the solenoid. Information technology should spring gently back out when released, and it should slide in and out smoothly when pressed several times in a row. If the plunger doesn't movement easily and smoothly, replace the solenoid; it is damaged and tin't be repaired. Practice not employ whatever oil or lubricant to the solenoid plunger, if information technology is sticking it is not repairable, supersede it.

Solenoid Removed, Showing Plunger

Remove the valve chapeau, nearly are held in place past several metal screws. Some models of valve accept lids that screw off similar the elevation of a jar, turn counter-clockwise (lefty losey) to remove this type of lid. You lot may need to utilise a strap wrench to remove the jar-top style lids. All valves accept a spring under the lid, don't let it fall out into the mud! Remove the spring and set it aside.

Valve Chapeau Screws

Removing Valve Lid Screws

Watch that the Spring Does Non Autumn Out When Removing the Lid

Expect for the tiny passages, called "ports", inside the valve lid. These ports lead from the bottom of the lid to the area where the solenoid was fastened. The exact location of the ports varies with each valve brand and model. Make sure these passages are not clogged with a grain of sand or whatever. Be careful you do not scratch or overstate these passages when trying to get the sand out! Practice not try to drill out these ports to clean them or make them larger.

Ports in Lid

Remove the rubber diaphragm from the valve. Make certain it is non cracked or broken, if it is replace it. Some valve models likewise have a port in the diaphragm, check to encounter if there is one, if then make sure it is clean. On some valves the port in the diaphragm has a metal pin that runs through it, the purpose of the pin is to keep the port clean. The pin should slide freely in the port. The diaphragm in the photo beneath has a separate, removable seat gasket attached to the bottom of it with a screw. On many valves the safety seat gasket and the diaphragm are one slice and the seat gasket is not removable. Brand sure the seat gasket or diaphragm seat does not have annihilation stuck on information technology, like a grain of sand or twig. If the gasket surface is scratched or torn replace the gasket or diaphragm.

Examine the valve seat in the bottom of the valve body. The seat is the role of the valve trunk that the gasket presses against to stop the water flow through the valve. Make sure the seat is not scratched or pitted, if it is the valve will leak when closed. On some valves the seat is replaceable. On some brass valves the seat can exist basis downwardly with a special tool to remove pits and scratches. However, for most valves if the seat is scratched or pitted, the valve is not repairable and must be replaced.

Safety Diaphragm and Gasket

With the valve disassembled plough on the h2o to flush whatever remaining sand and crud from the pipes upstream of the valve. Turn information technology on full blast, and run it for a minute or two, you lot need to get everything out of that pipage. Plow off the h2o, and dry yourself off. I know you don't want to go moisture, but don't skip flushing the pipes and valve body, this is an important step!

Carefully clean everything, so reassemble the valve. Some valves have a divide lid gasket or o-ring that needs to exist cleaned or replaced earlier being reassembled. If in that location are any o-rings, I strongly suggest yous lubricate them before reassembling using Thousand-Y Jelly or a like product. Lubricating o-rings is optional, but recommended as information technology keeps them from crimping during associates. If the o-ring crimps information technology volition be ruined and volition leak. K-Y Jelly is a water-based lubricant that you buy in the feminine hygiene department of a supermarket or drug store. (Don't ask for it at the hardware store unless y'all desire to requite the employees a good express joy at your expense. Yes, I admit I savage for this back when I was first starting out in this concern, it's a favorite plumber gag to ship the new guy out to purchase the M-Y Jelly!) Practise not use vaseline, silicone, oil or any petroleum based products on the valve, they may damage the seals and likewise may clog the ports in the valve.

Apply Grand-Y Jelly to Lubricate Safe Parts of the Valve
Practice Not Use Petroleum-Based Products!

When attaching the lid, avoid striping out the lid threads and warping the lid equally follows: When inserting the screws that hold the cap on, offset with one of the screws next to the solenoid. Insert the screw in the hole then turn it counter-clockwise (losey lefty) until you feel a slight click as the screw finds the threads. Then reverse direction (righty tighty) and lightly tighten it. Then insert the second screw on the opposite side of the valve lid. Like the get-go, detect the threads so just lightly tighten the screw. Continue with ane screw on ane side and the side by side on the other until they are all in. Now get back and tighten them all, going in the same order you inserted them. Do non over-tighten the screws on plastic valves, you will strip out the threads.

If you're blessed and didn't mess up something the valve should work correctly now.

Suggestion: Your valve has already failed once, chances are that means something in the water got stuck in it, which means there is sand or whatever in the h2o supply. Consider installing a filter upstream of the valve to continue out the sand and grime in the hereafter. Typically the cost of a valve repair is greater than the cost of installing a filter. Come across the Irrigation H2o Filtration Tutorial.

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Text and Images past Jess Stryker unless noted. Copyright © Jess Stryker, 1997-2018. All rights reserved.

Source: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/faq/repair-valve.htm

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